These three hotels–one at Uxmal, one at Coba and one at Chichen Itza–are no longer run by Club Med, as the book says. They’re now run by the Islander Collection, and the contact information is 987/872-9300 ext. 8101, www.islandercollection.com. Rates and all facilities are basically still the same.
New phone numbers for this great hotel in Sudzal, outside of Izamal (p. 215): 999/132-7411 or 999/187-9137. In the US, you can call 813/636-8200.
This hostel in Valladolid (p. 200) was closed for renovation when I was there in Nov 07. No sign of when it will reopen.
Word is that you still can’t climb El Castillo, and that you have to get “permission” to climb up the interior pyramid to the temple inside. I’m not sure yet what this entails–real, signed papers or just a special, separate ticket–so you may want to ask at the main desk before you go in.
I’ve also been warned that the situation with the crafts vendors is getting a little out of hand–lots of pestering.
And of course you’ve heard that Chichen Itza is a “New Wonder of the World.” All I can think is: Yikes. Crowds-a-million. On the other hand, more people will help divert all the crafts vendors!
I don’t editorialize much on this site (for that, see Roving Gastronome), but as a tourist, I get grumpy at the thought of mobs of vendors and crowds. As someone who works in the tourism industry, though, I can see that people need to make a living somehow. As long as you go to Chichen Itza (or Cancun, or the Pyramids in Cairo, or wherever) knowing you are not going to have a silent, solitary moment of communing with the ancients, then you will have a much better experience. You have to appreciate the modern phenomena as much as the ancient ones.
Still, makes Ek-Balam and, say, the Chenes sites over by Campeche so much more appealing.
Posada Flamboyanes (p. 209) was shut when I visited in October, and the neighbors say that it doesn’t seem to be closed for good, but it is not reliably open.
The entry price at Chichen Itza (p. 207) has risen to M$95. The stairs up El Castillo, the main pyramid, are currently closed, as is the interior temple, but a guide assured me this was temporary, and they should be back open in December.
Genesis Ek Balam (p. 205) has two new phone numbers: 1-985/101-0277 is the mobile on the owner’s person, and 1-985/852-7980 is the mobile at the lodge; both can have not-so-great reception, however, and Lee recommends using email (there’s now fast satellite access, and a wireless network).
The prices have gone up: the cabañas without bath are US$44, and the two new rooms with private toilets and sinks (showers are still shared) are US$50. The wood-frame two-story building—the simplest rooms—are typically reserved for family groups, starting at US$60. If you stay three nights, there’s a 25 percent discount on the last night; five nights gets a 50 percent discount on the last night; and for seven nights, the last night is free.
I can’t say enough good about this place—beautiful gardens, great pool, solid dedication to ecotourism principles and great opportunities to see a Maya village up close. (Lee can arrange a tour around the local artisans’ workshops, for instance—you’ll even learn how to weave a hammock…a little!)
Iglesia de San Bernardino de Siena (p. 201), as far as I can tell, is not regularly open in the afternoons. Try before noon and after 5pm, every day but Tuesday.
Entry price at Cenote Dzitnup (X’keken) and Cenote Samula (p. 203) is up to M$25, and Zacà (p. 202) in Valladolid is up to M$20.
A correction: the entrance price for the ruins of Ek-Balam (p. 204) is actually M$24. (I was anticipating a boost in price, because the state government is really touting the site…but I guess it hasn’t happened yet!)
On the other hand, the price for Cenote Xcanché (p. 205) is up to M$100 for the full package (bike rental, rappelling, etc.), and will go up to M$150 in December. Basic entrance—just to swim—is M$25. They can also arrange meals, if you call ahead: 985/858-6506.
Hotel San Carlos (p. 205) is getting a little grubby. Posada San Jorge, on the south side of the plaza, is much nicer, but is a little cagey about its prices—could be in the M$300 range, but also in the M$600 category, if they’re busy; it does have a pool, however.
And no change, just a confirmation: Restaurant Tres Reyes really is worth getting off the bus for.
Hotel San Felipe de Jesús (p. 206) no longer offers the boat service to the beach, but it’s still a great hotel. A ride to the beach on a lancha from the village cooperative (east end of the seafront) runs M$15 per person.
