The Rough Guide to the Yucatan UPDATE

Hostal Ambar (p. 305) has changed hands, and is now a very nice small hotel called El Chechen. Rooms are M$300 per night—very good value for the pretty location. (Ambar itself has moved into the main part of town—it’s cheap, but not great.)

Posada San Vicente (p. 305) cannot be recommended—it is no longer notably cheaper than the other posadas on the list, and it is substantially nastier.

Camping Chaac (p. 305) is shut.

Cabanas Safari (p. 305) is shut.

The Castelmar hotel (mentioned in the Reforma review, p. 274) has been totally (and attractively) redone, and now runs about M$800 a night, which is a good price for a place with a pool.

Hotel Lopez (p. 274) has a pool now as well, making it excellent value.

Hotel Embajadores (p. 238) is closed.

The market in Progreso (p. 239) is closed for renovations (as of Feb 08—looked like it wouldn’t be done for a while).

Posada Liz (p. 239) in Telchac Puerto has new owners and is now called Libros y Suenos. It has books for sale, as well as bicycles for rent, and can arrange fishing trips.

Villa Mercedes (p. 225) is now the Merida Inter-Continental. Rooms are a bit more generic than they used to be, but this is still a good top-end choice.

Luz En Yucatan (p. 226) has changed owners, and they’ve done some renovations—it all looks like positive changes.

These three hotels–one at Uxmal, one at Coba and one at Chichen Itza–are no longer run by Club Med, as the book says. They’re now run by the Islander Collection, and the contact information is 987/872-9300 ext. 8101, www.islandercollection.com. Rates and all facilities are basically still the same.

The main beach (Playa Caribe, p. 126) is looking much better–deeper sand, fewer rocks. But I would still advise against staying directly on the beach, except for a couple of specific hotels. With the real estate situation in Playa so feverish, it appears that many older beach hotels are letting maintenance slide while waiting for some great buyout deal to come along. No matter how slick a website a hotel has, the reality can be pretty stark.

Also, condo construction is continuing apace–not even the north side of town (north of C 20 or so) is particularly quiet anymore, and in fact this is where a lot of new buildings are going up. And no sign of it dying down, so be prepared for noise from all this as well.

New phone numbers for this great hotel in Sudzal, outside of Izamal (p. 215): 999/132-7411 or 999/187-9137. In the US, you can call 813/636-8200.

This hostel in Valladolid (p. 200) was closed for renovation when I was there in Nov 07. No sign of when it will reopen.

This great little hotel (p. 151) and cafe (the Cafe del Mar) in Xpu-Ha have closed.

These cheap cabanas in Tulum (p. 156) are closed. (As a consolation, the Mar Caribe beach club–now signed “Don Cafeto”–to the south has some very basic cabanas.)

This nice B&B in Santa Elena, on the Ruta Puuc (p. 254), just sent me a little update about its facilities:

We are adding 2 new rooms, available in late November, which will each have one queen bed, at 500 pesos each. AC is optional at 100 pesos more. These rooms are in a separate structure, set lower in the garden/orchard area.

We also have put new mattresses in all the rooms, the pillow-top, orthopedic style, very nice ones.

Flycatcher does have a very nice garden area–lots of fruit trees!–so I imagine the new rooms will be in a good setting.

This great little B&B on Isla Mujeres (p. 102) has changed its name to Villa La Bella, and its website has changed to www.villalabella.com. Nothing else has changed though–same great owners, same beautiful little setup on the windward side of the island.

Just pulling up some details that people added via comments a while back:

These two B&Bs in San Miguel (pp. 134 and 135) are no longer under the same ownership, and the contact details have changed.

So, Amaranto’s website is www.tamarindoamaranto.com, and its phone number is +52-987-564-4262. It’s now a proper B&B, and hosted nearly round the clock.

Tamarindo is at www.tamarindocozumel.com, and +52-987-872-6190. It also has two new apartments for rent, complete with private kitchens.

So, as readers have previously commented, Kailuumcito (p. 177, which is now really known as Kailuum, since the old Kailuum shut) is back open…sort of. At the very present time (summer), it’s shut, but it allegedly will be accepting guests starting in December.

It has changed its policies a bit, however, because it is still welcoming day visitors from cruise ships. The main change: no honor bar! On the plus side, the prices have gone down. And this might all change again, because the owners seem to be reevaluating the setup all the time. It’s still a beautiful spot, and the environment within the resort is a very special one–assuming they don’t tinker with it too much. Oh, and it’s no longer part of Turquoise Reef Group, but bookable on its own website, www.kailuum.com.

In the meantime (or, really, anytime), I would definitely recommend Mayan Beach Garden. It’s not in the current guide because I didn’t have time to visit on that research trip, but I’ve been by since then. It’s just a little way up the road, and very out on the very edge of it all. Marcia, the owner, runs a great operation, and I hear the food is very good. The setup is certainly more formal than Kailuum–actual walls, not tents!, and some rooms even have a/c–but it is also a very special place with lots of loyal repeat guests. And, at the moment, it seems quite a lot more reliable than Kailuum.

This nice tent-camping place (p. 177) is CLOSED for good–it’s now just acting as a beach club for cruise-shippers from Mahahual. Really a waste of good property, and the end of a great era!

Posada Flamboyanes (p. 209) was shut when I visited in October, and the neighbors say that it doesn’t seem to be closed for good, but it is not reliably open.

Like everywhere hit by Hurricane Wilma last October, Isla Mujeres has some construction going on, but otherwise looks great. In fact, aside from a couple of boarded-up buildings, you wouldn’t know anything had happened.

Poc Na Hostel (p. 101) has a new website: www.pocna.com.

Casa Maya Zazil-Ha (p. 101) is now using yet another name: Villas Kiin. All the signs leading up to the place say Casa Maya, however, and the owner is the same.

Vistalmar (p. 102) is now painted green, not pink—in casing you’re looking for that. Otherwise it’s the same, though, and it’s sea-view rooms are a great deal.

Cosmic Cosas used bookshop (p. 107) has moved in with the new Mañanas café at the corner of C Guerrero and C Matamoros; as far as I can tell, there’s no Internet access here, though.

Entrance to Hacienda Mundaca is up to M$20, and I’d really recommend steering clear of the “zoo” area. Also, the turtle farm—which isn’t mentioned in this guide because it was shut when I visited—has reopened, under the direction of the Isla Mujeres government (as is Hac. Mundaca). Entrance is M$20, and you get to see lots of baby sea turtles. The farm is located near Hacienda Mundaca, on the road up the spit enclosing Laguna Macax.

The Weary Traveler (p. 155) no longer offers a beach shuttle, but there is a town bus that does cheap transport now.

Tribal Village (p. 155, 159) has turned very sketchy and not really conducive to fun backpacker-y parties–or it doesn’t seem that way in the low season. The ownership is a bit creepy, and the place is in very bad repair. I wouldn’t be surprised if this land were sold quite soon.

Palma Dorada (p. 135) has a new email address: palmadorada[at]prodigy[dot]net[mx], and it should have a new website soon: www.palmadoradainn.com.

Pepita (p. 135) has put a/c in all of its rooms, moving it out of the budget category (a double goes for M$390 now). That leaves Sosilmar, Marruang and Aguilar as your budget options, none of which are outstanding, unfortunately.

The whole Caribbean coast looks great–you’d never guess Hurricane Wilma had even happened, unless you’re really looking for evidence (a lot of the mangroves around Cancun are still battered-looking, for instance). Almost all of the hardest-hit hotels have reopened by now, and there’s a lot of new landscaping and construction.

Here’s what’s new in lodging in Cancun:

Villas Juveniles (p. 84) is shut for remodeling–which might make this an appealing place to stay after it’s finished.

Aristos (p. 85) is gone–something new and bigger is being built in its place.

Villas Tacul (p. 88) is shut–it doesn’t look like it’s being renovated.

El Pueblito (p. 88) is still closed, but should reopen this month, following extensive renovations.

Mexico Hostel (p. 85) is now being managed by Tulum’s Weary Traveler crew, which just means the place is generally a bit more organized.

Cancun Rosa (p. 85) has remodeled and gotten rid of its groovy old lobby–which was really the most appealing part anyway. I won’t be putting this place in the next edition.

Mahahual is booming in a very weird, fast way. There are several new hotels in town proper, and quite a lot of restaurants and businesses.

Casa del Mar (p. 177) is moving once again, to a spot just north of 40 Cañones Hotel, but worth seeking out for the tacos and general good vibes.

Las Cabañas de Tío Phil (p. 177) has been taken over by Dreamtime Diving and made into a resort, so it’s substantially different and has changed its pricing. Dreamtime, incidentally, has changed ownership; it also has a Chinchorro license now.

In Xcalak, however, things are kind of the same. Marina Mike’s (p. 178) can’t be recommended anymore. Tierra Maya (p. 178) has changed hands, and Maya Village (p. 178) is shut. This leaves only Costa de Cocos as a reliable spot close to town, but it’s a very good one.

UPDATE: Jan. 12, 2007: I’ve just gotten a very bad firsthand report about Costa de Cocos. It sounds as if the owners aren’t on premises very often, and a lot of the attention (including the boats) has shifted to dealing with day visitors from the cruise ships from Mahahual.

However, reports are now good from Casa Carolina (which also does diving, like Costa de Cocos), and Tierra Maya, both of which are just up the road.

Hotel Ucum (p. 182) has a new website: www.hotelucumchetumal.com.

Arba Internet (p. 184) is now called Web Center, but has the same services.

La Prosperidad de Moncho’s (p. 184) is now called El Encanto de la Pitaya, but the setup looks exactly the same.

Vacabanti (p. 184) is closed. It was a little before its time, I suppose.

Oxtankah (p. 185) costs M$30.

Hotel América (p. 275) is being remodeled, which is good—except the sort of modern décor doesn’t really go with the colonial house it’s in, so it’s still a bit odd and dark and musty, and the prices are now in the (6) category. Not terrible, but there are now better hotels in this price category, such as…

Hotel López (p. 274), which has also remodeled, to much better effect. The place has a nice Twenties apartment-complex feel, and the rooms are quite nice-looking, all with a/c, TV and wireless Internet, for $421 for a double.

Sir Francis Drink (p. 278) is closed.

The museum in Santa Elena (p. 254) now costs M$10.

Hacienda Ochil costs M$20 to enter, unless you are going to the restaurant (or say you are). The cenote was covered in algae, though, and wasn’t very inviting for a swim. Not mentioned in the description are the very nice craft workshops.

Entrance to Uxmal (p. 247) is now M$95, and M$50 on Sun.

Sacbe Bungalows (p. 254) is phasing out its camping facilities, so don’t count on it; but it will soon be offering a larger house to rent, for a three-day minimum. It also has a new land-line telephone: 997/978-5158. Try that if you don’t reach someone on the other line.

The Ruta Puuc bus is M$120–but that might just be a low-season thing, as it seems odd that the price would drop.

The rumored Hernandez hotel on the plaza (p. 214) will actually be a folk art museum, perhaps opening in December 2006.

There is another new hotel on the plaza, however: Hotel de San Miguel Arcangel (www.sanmiguelhotel.com.mx), which has some small but nicely done rooms, starting at M$540.

Maison Lafitte (p. 225) is not aging so well. It’s still fairly well priced for what you get, but I’m not sure I’ll include it on the next edition.

I for some reason failed to include a great budget hotel called Mucuy (C 57 no. 481, between C 56 and C 58, 928/-5193, www.mucuy.com), which is now even nicer because it has a small pool—yet the rates are still between M$200 and M$300.

Genesis Ek Balam (p. 205) has two new phone numbers: 1-985/101-0277 is the mobile on the owner’s person, and 1-985/852-7980 is the mobile at the lodge; both can have not-so-great reception, however, and Lee recommends using email (there’s now fast satellite access, and a wireless network).

The prices have gone up: the cabañas without bath are US$44, and the two new rooms with private toilets and sinks (showers are still shared) are US$50. The wood-frame two-story building—the simplest rooms—are typically reserved for family groups, starting at US$60. If you stay three nights, there’s a 25 percent discount on the last night; five nights gets a 50 percent discount on the last night; and for seven nights, the last night is free.

I can’t say enough good about this place—beautiful gardens, great pool, solid dedication to ecotourism principles and great opportunities to see a Maya village up close. (Lee can arrange a tour around the local artisans’ workshops, for instance—you’ll even learn how to weave a hammock…a little!)

Hotel San Carlos (p. 205) is getting a little grubby. Posada San Jorge, on the south side of the plaza, is much nicer, but is a little cagey about its prices—could be in the M$300 range, but also in the M$600 category, if they’re busy; it does have a pool, however.

And no change, just a confirmation: Restaurant Tres Reyes really is worth getting off the bus for.

Hotel San Felipe de Jesús (p. 206) no longer offers the boat service to the beach, but it’s still a great hotel. A ride to the beach on a lancha from the village cooperative (east end of the seafront) runs M$15 per person.

This camping spot on Isla Holbox (p. 108) has a new phone number: 984/875-2358.

The owner also reports she has a new separate cabana (M$500-$700, depending on season), with its own kitchen, washing machine, bedroom and bathroom.

The regular camping facilities also have laundry service.

Alas, it turns out the pizza oven, which was due to arrive any day after my research visit ages ago, still has not arrived. Apologies for the empty promise!

This cool hostel by the bus station (p. 266) has closed. Apparently, the owners have opened a new place in Cancun–but that doesn’t help you much in Merida, does it? Not to worry: Nomadas is still an excellent, friendly stop (and cheap!), and Hostal del Peregrino is beautiful and a bit smaller.

La Posada del Sol (p. 156) has a website, finally: www.laposadadelsol.com, with very nice photos. The “jungle” rooms mentioned in the book are still one of the best deals in Tulum, considering the size and attractiveness (on the website, they’re the rooms, not the bungalows).

And the same owners now have a second hotel, Posada Lamar, about 1km south of La Posada del Sol. I haven’t seen it with my own eyes, but if it’s like Posada del Sol, it’s probably beautiful.

Sol Cabanas del Caribe (p. 135) is closed. It got pretty battered by Hurricane Wilma, apparently, and since it was an older resort, it probably wasn’t worth fixing up.

Palapas Amaranto (p. 134) has a new website, www.tamarindoamaranto.com, which also gets you info for Tamarindo B&B (p. 135), under the same ownership. (And to clarify, at Tamarindo, all guests have access to the kitchen, not just two of the rooms.)

Additionally, you can now contact each place via the following mobile phone numbers:

AMARANTO
01-987/800-5571 (in Mexico)
+44-987/800-5571 (from outside the country)

TAMARINDO
01-987/112-4111 (in Mexico)
+44-987/112-4111 (from outside)

Because Amaranto is unhosted (meaning there isn’t someone there around the clock), you should call before you arrive, to make sure someone is there to meet you with keys.

This nice little family-run place on Isla Mujeres (p. 101) has new contact information:

tel: 998/877-0861
email: hfrancis[at]prodigy.net.mx

And, as noted below, remember that the website is just www.francisarlene.com.

This little B&B in Santa Elena (p. 254) has a new website [www.flycatcherinn.com], and new email: contact[at]flycatcherinn[dot]com.

Additionally, the owners are putting a/c in five of the rooms, and the rates will go up M$100 on these rooms–but worth it, when you consider it’s been over 100 degrees for a long stretch already!

And, the owner says, in the fall a new restaurant will be opening just down the road, run by a Brit/Canadian woman. This definitely improves the eating options right around this area, particularly for people traveling without a car.

Travel In’, just south of Mahahual (p. 177), no longer takes reservations by email–rooms are just first-come, first-serve. Considering how nice and cheap the place is, it’s definitely worth taking the bus or a servicio down there first, and working your way back up the road if it’s full. The place now has three rooms (M$100/person), along with space for camping (M$40/person).

Just north of Mahahual, Kailuumcito (p. 177) is now officially called Kailuum (because the original Kailuum, up near Playa del Carmen, closed last summer).

On Isla Mujeres, the hotel listed as Playa Secreto (p. 101) is really Hotel Secreto. My bad. On the same page, the correct URL for Hotel Francis Arlene is www.francisarlene.com.

The website for Rancho Angel (p. 175) near Felipe Carrillo Puerto is now dead, but you can get the info on the Cuzan Guesthouse website (http://www.flyfishmx.com).