Mahahual is booming in a very weird, fast way. There are several new hotels in town proper, and quite a lot of restaurants and businesses.
Casa del Mar (p. 177) is moving once again, to a spot just north of 40 CaÃ±ones Hotel, but worth seeking out for the tacos and general good vibes.
Las CabaÃ±as de TÃo Phil (p. 177) has been taken over by Dreamtime Diving and made into a resort, so it’s substantially different and has changed its pricing. Dreamtime, incidentally, has changed ownership; it also has a Chinchorro license now.
In Xcalak, however, things are kind of the same. Marina Mike’s (p. 178) can’t be recommended anymore. Tierra Maya (p. 178) has changed hands, and Maya Village (p. 178) is shut. This leaves only Costa de Cocos as a reliable spot close to town, but it’s a very good one.
UPDATE: Jan. 12, 2007: I’ve just gotten a very bad firsthand report about Costa de Cocos. It sounds as if the owners aren’t on premises very often, and a lot of the attention (including the boats) has shifted to dealing with day visitors from the cruise ships from Mahahual.
However, reports are now good from Casa Carolina (which also does diving, like Costa de Cocos), and Tierra Maya, both of which are just up the road.