by zora on November 12, 2012
Two final bits of contrariness, both terribly sensible. Tip #7: Don’t ask the price of a taxi before you get in. Guidebooks always say “Agree on a price before you get in a taxi.” I think I’ve even written this myself. But nothing marks you as an out-of-towner like asking a cabbie, “How much to…?” [...]
by zora on October 23, 2012
Continuing my series of cranky travel tips, many of which have to do with how to plan your itinerary. This one’s related to Tip #1, but in the bigger picture. Go to the ugly places. I’ve argued this before, specifically about Cancun. But it has a broader application. Any indie traveler worth his backpack shuns [...]
by zora on October 3, 2012
File all this under Things I Wish I’d Eaten More Of. 1. Fresh mizithra We drove to the next little town to visit the place that makes the killer sheep’s-milk yogurt, with its nice crusty top. I’ve read rapturous descriptions of fresh ricotta, but I didn’t really believe it until they fed us the mizithra, [...]
by zora on September 19, 2012
Peter and I were ambling down the boardwalk in Eressos, on some half-baked errand or other, when we saw…a bloodbath. Flashing knives. Bright-red gore. At first, I thought Costa was butchering a sheep, right there on a restaurant table. We got closer and saw that the carcass was, in fact, a tuna. I’ve seen guys [...]