Counterintuitive Travel Tips #7 and #8: Taxis and Sleep

by Zora O'Neill on November 12, 2012

Two final bits of contrariness, both terribly sensible. Tip #7: Don’t ask the price of a taxi before you get in. Guidebooks always say “Agree on a price before you get in a taxi.” I think I’ve even written this myself. But nothing marks you as an out-of-towner like asking a cabbie, “How much to…?” […]


Counterintuitive Travel Tip #2: Ugly Places

by Zora O'Neill on October 23, 2012

Continuing my series of cranky travel tips, many of which have to do with how to plan your itinerary. This one’s related to Tip #1, but in the bigger picture. Go to the ugly places. I’ve argued this before, specifically about Cancun. But it has a broader application. Any indie traveler worth his backpack shuns […]


Summer Break #4: Greece and Turkey: Best Bites

by Zora O'Neill on October 3, 2012

File all this under Things I Wish I’d Eaten More Of. 1. Fresh mizithra We drove to the next little town to visit the place that makes the killer sheep’s-milk yogurt, with its nice crusty top. I’ve read rapturous descriptions of fresh ricotta, but I didn’t really believe it until they fed us the mizithra, […]


Summer Break #2: Chicken of the Sea, Greek-Stylie

by Zora O'Neill on September 19, 2012

Peter and I were ambling down the boardwalk in Eressos, on some half-baked errand or other, when we saw…a bloodbath. Flashing knives. Bright-red gore. At first, I thought Costa was butchering a sheep, right there on a restaurant table. We got closer and saw that the carcass was, in fact, a tuna. I’ve seen guys […]